Editor's note: Several of the nation's largest food manufacturers recently rolled out a new label called "Smart Choices." Controversy erupted when processed junk like Froot Loops and Fudgsicles made the cut. In a Sept. 4 New York Times article, Eileen T. Kennedy, dean of the Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy at Tufts University and president of the Smart Choices board, defended those choices. What follows is a letter written directly to Kennedy in response to her remarks in the Times article. Should Kennedy respond, Grist would love to publish it. -- Tom Philpott   "Smart Choice"--or sugary junk?Zanastardust/FlicDear …