See any events that I may have missed? Include them in the comments section.

Sept. 4:

AVEDA Caps Recycling Program: Rodarte, Preen, 3.1 Philip Lim, and Alexander Wang are greening it up backstage. This is the kick-it-off cocktail party. Good event to connect with friends.

BeEcoChic: Stars are out to prove something — that environment is fashionable. Good star-sighting at the show; pieces are one-of-a-kind.

Sept. 6:

Alexander Wang after-party … Beautiful people in a beautiful setting. Try as you might, you only can get in if you know someone on the inside.

Sept. 7:

Hess-Natur and Miguel Adrover show — Miguel says he is “bored of the runway,” so he’ll be providing a mixed showcase that is guaranteed to pique some curiosity.

Sept. 9:

Eko-lab and Ekovaruhuset present their highly meticulous, handmade creations. A must-see for people who appreciate beautiful, feminine designs. 3-6p.m., The Gabarron Foundation, Carriage House Center for the Arts, 149 E. 38th Street, New York, N.Y. (Lexington and 3rd Ave.)

Sept. 13-15:

Designers & Agents is at it again: Check out their New York gathering and the fresh green labels they represent.

Sept. 14-19:

London Fashion Week shows off Esthetica in its fifth season. Peruse the exhibition for the latest eco-desingers.

Sept. (TBD):

Eco-fashion Brazil is a new show discovering talented eco-fashion designers, so if you’re in South America, stop on by.

Oct. 9-12:

The Ethical Fashion Show is in its fifth year in Paris and is slated to have the same great designers from all corners of the globe.

Oct. 17:

Elephant Art “Trunk Show” at Home/Guest House will be a fun, cordial show with one-of-a-kind designer pieces created by eco-friendly designers and painted on by elephant “artists.”

Oct. 17-19:

Designers & Agents will be taking La La Land by storm with some fresh green designers and a good ol’ green after-party on Oct. 18.

“We have this idea to build a green house on the Real World,” he told me. “Instead of creating a whole new green show, why not build it into one of the most watched programs on MTV?”

Can anyone say brilliant?

Well, we had a blast teaching the Hollywood cast a few things about saltwater pools, dual-flush toilets, low-flow showerheads, eco bedding, hybrid cars, and soy candles that double as body lube. They also got a kick that their pad was constructed in the building that once housed the I Love Lucy show. How about that for recycling?

Check out the video house tours below.

No sweat: What the f*ck! This bike powers the computer:

Let’s take a shower together after we get lubed up:

If you can’t take the heat, get out of the Energy Star kitchen:

C’mon baby, light my iPower:

The vegetable-tanned leather used in the collection’s cute ballerina flats and boots is sourced from a social project in Namibia, which she is helping supervise. “There is very little history of footwear production in Namibia, except on the workshop level,” she tells me. Annabel also adorns her collections with talismans from Madagascar and Kenya. The figures, carved from horn, bone, and wood, are representative of the traditional artisan techniques of the area.

And since we are on the topic, Julie Gilhart (senior vice president over at Barney’s), who also recently came back from a trip to Namibia, helped put on a stellar Future Fashion event with Earth Pledge this past Thursday with the crème de la crème of the design world. “Many of these designers have been thinking about sustainable fabrics, but didn’t know where to start,” she told me. “This is all about getting the influencers to do something and getting them involved in the process.”

And since I’m really feeling this Africa theme, I might as well tell you about my trip to South Africa with Blake and the team from TOMS Shoes and Food 4 Africa. Because of the growing interest in the TOMS business model (you buy one, they give one), we were able to help deliver 50,000 pairs of shoes. I cut a crazy-ass video diary that you can rock out to while you are brushing your teeth or buying your pair of TOMS online.

P.S. “Scotch” or plaid was the favorite among the kids in S.A., in case you want to know what the in crowd was into.

P.P.S. If you catch a glimpse of the Hanson brothers in my video, you’re not hallucinating. They’re big supporters of TOMS and outspoken activists on AIDS. I was never one of those young girls squealing over “Mmmm Bop,” but after hanging with the entire Hanson family, I have one word: Solid. Highly recommend downloading their song and video Great Divide.

I’ll be in Seattle, Paris, and New York, and maybe San Francisco, so please drop in and say hello if you are nearby.

As enthusiasm for the green design movement continues to grow and the market becomes more robust and sophisticated, it is my (secret) hope to dethrone the Karl Lagerfelds of the world, who went on record to say, “If you want social justice, be a social worker.”

Down, down with the status quo. Hear, hear for revolution.

Oslo Fashion Week, August 13-19. Oslo will have a number of sustainable design elements, including presentations highlighting the Norwegian Initiative for Clean & Ethical Fashion (NICE); my S4 Newsletter, compliments of Inger-Mette Stenseth; the Fretex Redesign Project; and a show featuring a slew of eco-fashion designers such as Arne & Carlos, Leila Hafzi, 2(x)ist, The Alpaca Society, and Vera & William.

San Francisco Fashion Week, August 22-26. Being green is a natural way of life in the Bay Area, so it is only natural to see some green design elements in San Francisco Fashion Week. Check out the designers Missing Piece and Velvet Leaf on the runway, and don’t miss out on the “Trends in Eco Fashion” workshop on August 26.

London Fashion Week-Estethica Exhibition, September 15-20. This showcase for sustainable designers is in its second year and promises to be bigger and better. Notable brands that pledge sustainable development and fair-trade initiatives, like People Tree, Nahui Ollin, Veja, Katharine Hamnett, Noir, and Fifi Bijoux will be present, as well as some fabulous designers who do some spectacular work out of recycled and organic fabrics, including Again NYC, Ciel, Enamore, and From Somewhere.

Seattle Green Fashion Week, October 2-6. This will be Seattle’s first Green Fashion Week, and I’m delighted to be a part of it. Runway designs include some fabulous earth-friendly fashions from Anna Cohen, Lara Miller, Covet, Sling & Stones, and a host of garments from Earth Pledge’s Future Fashion initiative.

Paris Ethical Fashion Show, October 11-14. The Ethical Fashion Show is in its fourth year running and will feature a series of conferences, trade show, and runway show open to the public and press. EFS is always impressive because it is the only show that brings in designers from all over the world, including Africa, Asia, and Central and South America — and has a special focus on sustainable development and design.

LA Fashion Week-EcoNouveau Fest, October 12. This little fun fest will kick off LA Fashion Week. EcoNoveau will feature three eco-fashion designers and will curate musical performances and art exhibits that are designed with the principles of high aesthetics and environmentalism.

New York Design Week-Future Fashion Show, October 17. New York City, House & Garden TV, ABC Carpet & Home, and Earth Pledge will kick off the “green” element of New York Design Week. Many well known eco-fashion designers will be showcased, including Linda Loudermilk, Loomstate, and Bahar Shahpar, but a number of one-off eco-pieces created by the 7th on Sixth crowd will be gracing the runway too. Stick around and tour the sustainable design product stories in the always impressive space of ABC Carpet & Home.

Portland Fashion Week, October 19-24. Portland will kick off a Green Fashion Week in the John Ross Tower, a LEED-certified green building. Anna Cohen, Sameunderneath, and Lizzie Parker will take center stage, while new designers will be unveiled during the festivities.

Barney’s Holiday-Go Green, December. Word on the street is that Barney’s will be pledging deeper green initiatives this holiday season. All I can say is the trend-makers are starting to do some serious moving and shaking.

A few weeks ago, a good friend of mine invited me to an apparel industry environmental seminar chock full of good industry types. Seminars of this nature are always dreadfully boring, but it’s worth it because you get the inside scoop on what the industry is (and unfortunately isn’t) talking about. The principle topic was regulated substances and chemicals, how to move toward green chemistry alternatives, and how to manage all the issues associated with regulations. The meeting was the first important step in getting companies like Ann Taylor, Liz Claiborne, L.L. Bean, and others to begin taking the steps needed to beef up their consumer-protection standards.

The buzzword of the day was RSL, or “Restricted Substance List.” Most RSL’s are either proprietary information or outdated. That is all changing thanks to the American Apparel & Footwear Association‘s Environmental Task Force, which spearheaded the seminar.

On June 27, AAFA released an RSL to help textile, apparel, and footwear companies take the first step in regulating — and, in some cases, eliminating — certain contaminants from their products. I emphasize “first step” because many of the companies sitting in the auditorium were only marginally aware that so many chemicals and substances made up the DNA of their outfits.

AAFA’s RSL, though robust, is not a “best practices” list. It only includes chemicals that are restricted or banned in finished goods because of a regulation or law. For each restricted substance — including chromium, the flame retardant DecaBDE, hydrofluorocarbons, dioxins, PERC, disperse dyes, azo dyes, and pesticides — the most restrictive regulation is noted. In most cases, it is the European Union that has the strictest regulation.

The accredited task force and peer review group behind the list, which includes companies such as Levi Strauss, Bureau Veritas, Nike, Hanesbrands, Oeko-Tex, American Chemistry Council, DyStar, and a host of others, will update the list every six months to ensure that it is kept current.

According to some of the members of the task force, there will eventually be a best practices list released, but not anytime this year. On the most exciting front, Andy Chen, director for RSL and Asia Communications of Nike, shared that the company will soon be disclosing its expanded list of regulated and banned substances in addition to the cleaner, greener substitutes. “Nike has a green chemistry program in development,” said Chen. “RSL is really only the first step. We’re releasing this information because we want to increase the use of green chemistry options.”

The release of proprietary lists for Nike may be more financial than altruistic, since purchasing more “green” chemistry alternatives will help drive down the cost. What seems more altruistic than financial for Nike, however, is their openness in discussing their “lessons learned.” This included TBT traces in a jersey (a chemical unknown to Nike at the time), cadmium in soccer balls, and lead paint on baby shoes. As soon as the chemicals were detected in routine testing, the products were incinerated, but the cost associated with bad public perception and supply chain management totaled approximately $12.75 million.

With a few exceptions, like Nike and Levi’s, restricted substances will continue to be a challenge for most apparel retailers and manufacturers. Most manufacturers do not own their own factories, so it is difficult to regulate what is going on behind closed doors. And many retailers and manufacturers are just starting to consider developing an RSL, so no solid teams are in place to take on the job as of yet. Lastly, issues like private labeling, differing international regulations, and varying state regulations (e.g., California’s “right-to-know” Prop 65 law) complicate the matter.

I wouldn’t be surprised to see all the companies in the audience within the next three to five years coming out with their own RSLs — and plans on how to extend “consumer-protection” standards to “worker-protection” standards.

Let’s get one thing straight: The “journalist” did not slander my name. It was quite the opposite: He had me sharing a photo shoot with Mayor Bloomberg; saving sharks in Miami; buttering up old-school Sierra Club veterans; and convincing motorheads to shut off their cars in exchange for bikini-clad pictures. Ooh, how naughty of me!

He even quoted me in conversations — on topics ranging from recycling batteries to rainforest preservation — that never took place, built off of scenarios that never happened. Even the water I was drinking during the interview wasn’t “glamorous” enough for him. He had me sucking back a Starbucks coffee after a whirlwind tour around the country. Note to future interviewers: I’ve never drunk coffee in my life.

There were so many places in the article that were fabricated, it made my head spin. Out of the 18 paragraphs, I found inconsistencies, mistakes, misrepresentations, or complete trumped-up stories in eight. I probably should have seen it coming. Halfway into our conversation, I called him out for not taking any notes or recording the interview. He smugly responded that he had “a good memory.”

It wasn’t until the article came out that I figured he might as well have the memory of a fish, since much of it was made up anyway. It prompted me to write to the editors at NZZ. I’m all for a little literary flair — when it is based on true events. But self-advertising theater based on occasions that never took place? I don’t care if it is for the sake of making green more glamorous. It’s outright unethical.

Let me say for the record that I was doubly shocked by the Editor-in-Chief’s rather patronizing letter back to me (available for all to read on my News Blog). Even though he said he had “admonished” the writer, he dismissed his series of fallacious storytelling as “mistakes.”

Mistakes?! Oh, I’m sorry. Last time I checked the canons of journalism, “bullshit” wasn’t one of the principles. May I present to you my bitch-slap-happy response to the editor:

Letter to Editor-in-Chief of NZZ dated June 21, 2007

I appreciate your timely response to my letter regarding Mr. Zuercher’s article, “Summer in the City.” I do stand by my word in my original letter to you. I also agree with you on one point: you should not publish made up articles.

Would you agree with me that journalism is about getting the facts right — or at least minimizing error? Is it not appropriate for journalists to fact check an article (something Mr. Zuercher could have easily done)? My question to you is: At what levels do a series of “mistakes” rise to false reporting? And when does a newspaper transcend into tabloid? Is there a formula for that?

Unfortunately for this article, fact-checking would have not addressed the completely fabricated scenarios that Mr. Zuercher has crafted around my career. I find it quite curious that just about every error I find in this article is one that seemingly provides more self-advertising, literary flair. Saying half the article is made up may be an exaggeration on my part. However, the article is only 18 paragraphs long and I have found inconsistencies, misrepresentations, or complete fabrications in at least eight of those paragraphs. I didn’t even bother including some of the small ones in the last letter, but your letter to me prompted me to point out all of them on the following page.

Thanks for taking initiative in regard to the note-taking, but how can you assure me that they were not crafted after the interview? I would also like to think that Mr. Zuercher was taking notes during our interview, but he was not. This is something I not only brought up to him, to which he responded that he has “a good memory,” but something I brought up to my management following the interview.

Thanks again for addressing this concern and making a stand for more ethical journalism. (And yes, I do apologize for the misspelling in your name.)

Thanks kindly,

Summer Rayne Oakes

“Eco fashion” has definitely become the buzzword of the moment.

Within the last month alone, my office has received calls from over a half-dozen trade shows and runway organizers seeking to green their events. Apparel companies and clients feverishly searching for organic clothing sources are also becoming quite common. The press seems to be foaming at the mouth for new material too, which is always a good sign; but, in the U.S. at least, we have yet to graduate beyond the “green” theme. This week I’ll be speaking to a U.K.-based women’s glossy on “ethical fashion,” a term I hear used far more frequently in Europe.

“Ethical” brings a more social-cultural perspective to the mix, one you don’t always get when talking straight up “eco” speak. The term has its roots in the fair-trade movement. Fair trade got its start 50 years ago, well before the idea of “eco fashion” was ever embraced by popular culture. It started with international aid groups working with small-scale African farmers. It wasn’t until the late 1980s that an international system of Fair Trade certification and labeling was introduced, but heck — that was about 20 years ago!

Still, “fair trade” and “ethical” fashion have yet to find their footing in America’s popular culture. They are terms that still remain too esoteric for the general public, particularly because fair trade is more often associated with foodstuffs and artsy-crafty products. There are a couple of reasons for this.

First, it is a challenge to place design teams on the ground to work with artisan groups on product design, mainly for financial reasons. Because of this, very few organizations or companies have begun developing cohesive, full-bodied fashion labels, which is necessary for brand recognition. Second, Transfair USA, the only third-party certifier of fair-trade products in the United States, is still working out ways to certify fashion products. As an alternative, labels can choose to become a part of the Fair Trade Federation, an association of businesses committed to fair wages and good employment, but many ethical, fair-trade brands choose to opt out of this and go it alone.

After I participated in fair-trade discussions at the World Trade Organization in Hong Kong in December 2005, it was clear that the principal challenge that many fair-trade fashion labels face is the concept of “scaling up” — in both size and sophistication. Those that I find to be the most successful and innovative are the ones that are exploring new and different partnerships — ones that help give credibility, public recognition, resources, and a fresh image to fair trade.

People Tree, one of the pioneers in fair-trade fashion, works tirelessly with 50 fair-trade groups in 15 developing countries. They have an extensive line of affordable men’s, women’s, youth, and baby clothes, principally sold in the U.K. and Japan. In June, they will unveil a limited-edition partnership line in Vogue Nippon with international fashion designers Thakoon, Richard Nicoll, Bora Aksu, and Foundation Addict. This is fresh off the backs of their permanent collection housed in TopShop, which officially launched in February 2006.

Mercado Global, a fair-trade line of fashion accessories originally founded by Echoing Green winners Ruth DeGolia and Benita Singh, has also announced a partnership with Levi’s, which will include a collection of fair-trade bags and accessories from Guatemala. Lotus by LOA, the newest fair-trade label that I have worked with, focuses on skilled artisans’ cooperatives in India. They are helping raise the profile of fair trade by offering chic and sophisticated décor and accessories through traditional retail outlets, partnerships, and corporate gifts. Indigo Handloom, a company focused on creating an elegant line of clothes in partnership with handloom weavers in India, was brought to my attention a couple weeks ago. From the looks of their initial website, they are a prime example of a company with terrific brand potential. World of Good, which works with 133 artisan groups in 31 countries, has also taken an interesting approach with its accessory line. They distribute their products through colorfully displayed kiosks in spas, salons, bookstores, yoga studios, and malls.

Programs such as these will help give a fresh look to fair-trade fashion and make products more widely available to the general public. Brands can leverage the concept the same way “green” has been leveraged in the marketplace: as an aspirational, good-for-the-world way of life. Like organics, fair trade is growing in double digit percentage points every year, a telltale sign that the concept of “fair-trade fashion” is truly taking off.

That’s the question that Jasmine, 16, innocently asks in Micha Peled’s documentary China Blue, a clandestine view of three girls’ lives in a Chinese sweatshop. I felt pretty embarrassed watching Jasmine cut the threads off our blue jeans during her 20-hour workday. It’s the same Catholic schoolgirl guilt you get when the burly, bearded dude walks in on you because the gas station’s bathroom lock is broken, or when your parents or roommate come home when they just weren’t supposed to. Once again, we’ve been caught with our pants down.

But this time, we’re participating in one of the largest human-rights abuses of all time. Which makes denim a damn good product around which to strike up a conversation about social issues.

Sorry, trusty Blue Jeans. You know I love you. You’ve been there for me through all occasions — my birthdays, my late-night outings, my first kiss, my first break-up … When I don’t know what to wear, you’re there for me … but now, it’s time to hang you out to dry … if only to make a point.

And a very important point at that. With all the green marketing out there, social issues are the next frontier that needs to be jointly tackled by the garmento gods. To answer Jasmine’s question: We are the big, fat, tall people who buy the jeans you make. And damn it — it’s about time we do something about it.

Here are a few ways to start shedding your shame:

• Check out the alternatives. Lots of denim labels are pledging eco-conscious initiatives, including Replay, Loomstate, Del Forte, Howies, Mission Playground, Sling and Stones, and a host of others. Most of the denim brands are aimed at the premium market, but brands like Levi’s and Rica Lewis offer some cost-sensitive items for the more budget-conscious. Read the latest issue of my newsletter, S4 on Denim. You’ll see how companies are beginning to think about their ecological and social footprint; what individuals, NGOs, and companies are doing to push the envelope; and why I consider 2007 the “Year of the Eco-conscious Blue Jean.”



• Slip into something more comfortable. On May 1, Levi’s is launching 501 Day to encourage community volunteering. The tradition dates back to the founding of the company, but this is the first time they’re advertising it openly and inviting the public to participate. Three organized events will happen in New York City, Los Angeles, and San Francisco, but I encourage anyone in any community to go out and volunteer — any day of the week. I’ll be in L.A. to clean up the beach with Levi’s and Heal the Bay, so put on your swim trunks and come out and join us. You can register on the website (preferable) or near their in-store displays. (In this poster, part of a series, I’m sporting my Levi’s Eco; in some locations, the posters will be life-size — big enough to frighten kids and adults alike into volunteering.)
• Shop smarter. Come out to the REPLAY Store in NYC (109 Prince Street at Greene) on May 3, 4, and 5 from 4-6 p.m. I’ll be there with the rest of the REPLAY team in case you have any burning questions about sustainable fashion or other-related eco topics.
• Wear ‘em in. In the market for some jeans, but don’t want to go new? Check out places like Buffalo Exchange, Sally’s (The Salvation Army) and vintage shops where you can get pre-worn varieties for part of the price.
• Wear ‘em out. Are your old blues a thread too bare? Take them to Denim Therapy or back to Del Forte for some Project Rejeaneration.