We tend to respond to Las Vegas with a mix of horror and adoration. It is, after all, a city the size of Seattle plunked in a place that gets as much rain in a year as many cities get in an afternoon. But long before most U.S. cities, Vegas was forced to come to grips with its harsh climatological reality. This town understands that adaptation is more than a side project; it is an economic, political, and existential imperative. In fact, for all of its obvious flaws, Sin City may be the best example we have of a place that has grappled with the kind of change that is coming for all of us, in one form or another.