Miami is quite literally on the front lines of climate change. A story in Rolling Stone this summer called it a city “on its way to becoming an American Atlantis” — a place that will someday be “a popular snorkeling spot where people [can] swim with sharks and sea turtles and explore the wreckage of a great American city.” But I’m told that locals are thinking seriously about how to prepare for the rising seas, that there might be a future here, albeit one where the houses are on stilts and you need a Zodiac to get to the Deco Drive Hookah Lounge. I came to see for myself.