So I’m in Tony Hsieh’s apartment in Downtown Las Vegas talking to a woman with rainbow hair whose bona fide, right-there-on-the-business-card job title is the “Pixie of Positivity,” when I notice the unicorn head on the kitchen counter.

Hsieh, the billionaire CEO of Zappos shoes, apparently has a thing for unicorns. They’re all over the apartment building, called the Ogden, where he and dozens of his associates live. Someone has drawn one (replete with rainbow) on the whiteboard Hsieh and his crew use for brainstorming sessions. There’s even a life-size (OK, horse-size) black unicorn lamp in one of the Ogden’s resident lounges. It’s past the Alice-in-Wonderland-inspired hall of mirrors and the black spot someone has painted on the wall and labeled, “HOLE INTO ANOTHER UNIVERSE. COME ON IN!”

Welcome to the wild and wacky world of Tony Hsieh’s grand urban experiment. I’m just a visitor here, along for one of the daily tours of the Big Guy’s flat, and getting the full sales job from the Pixie, whose real name is Heidi Noelle Stamper, and who works for the Downtown Project, a development company Hsieh has set up to orchestrate the complete overhaul of this city’s rundown downtown. (Don’t confuse Downtown with the Strip, which sits to the south, outside official city limits.)