Tama Matsuoka Wong doesn’t just frolic in her New Jersey forest, she eats it. A group of New Yorkers recently visited this delicious patch of land to learn about how a weed becomes a delicacy and to celebrate Wong’s new book Foraged Flavor. Read the whole story here.
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Foraging is a finicky business, Wong explains. Harvest an ingredient a day too soon or too late and your tongue or stomach may pay the price. The tender young leaves at the top of this Artemisia, for example, are perfect for a zesty herbal soup while the tough old leaves at the plant’s base need tempura batter.
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Wong doesn’t play around when harvesting garlic mustard, an invasive weed choking roadsides throughout the country. Grab it by the stem and rip the whole thing up, she says. From there, the leaves can stand in for basil in your favorite pesto recipe. It’s free and you’re helping the planet.
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Since ancient times, Artemisia, or mugwort, has been used to ward off evil spirits. The Japanese love it in sweet rice cakes, the Koreans toss it into pancakes and soup. Here in the States, it’s just another annoying invasive. “Pick all you want!” Wong encourages.
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Wong competes with deer when foraging for these Norway spruce tips. The thought of eating a Christmas tree sounds more painful than palatable, but the soft chartreuse tips are delectable when marinated in sugar water and pulverized mango. Of course, what isn’t awesome when covered in sugar?
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A tour participant takes a deep whiff of dainty dames rocket, an edible flower that knocks any boring green salad up a notch with splashy colors resembling a Mardi Gras parade.
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Urbanites recently transported from the jungles of NYC to the forests of New Jersey explore Wong’s magical swamp stomp. She built the elevated trail herself in order to access the elusive violets and other boggy goodies.
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Another tour participant cradles a bundle of prized garlic mustard and other weeds to bring a bit of the country back to her own city kitchen.
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No weed is too humble for Foraged Flavor co-author and chef Eddy Leroux to turn into a Michelin masterpiece. This foraged picnic included wild mint cucumber crudités, pokeweed and chickweed frittata, and Guanaja chocolate-dipped wild mint leaves.
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Wong and Leroux survey their versatile spread of celebrated weeds. Note: Not a tea pot in sight, and that’s no coincidence. If there’s one thing Wong can’t stand, it’s the “tastes good in tea” cop-out so often used for foraged ingredients.
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Back in the city I’m trying my hand at recreating that blissful New Jersey afternoon with some diligently gathered Artemisia. My kitchen smells like a meadow, and I've squashed a tick found crawling up the wall. This is legit.
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Artemisia is tossed into a concoction of onions, garlic, potatoes, mushrooms, and lots of butter. My witch brew of weeds is on its way to melting the mind of this humble Foodtown-supplied NYC kitchen.
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Voila! Pureed, cream-laden and garnished with an invasive garlic mustard flower that now will never seed, we have Aremisia Soup a la Wong. Check sidewalk cracks, vacant lots, and backyard for your own weedy treasures. Bon appetit!
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A professional forager shares her secrets
By Rachel Nuwer

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