An interviewer once saw fit to lump Vladimir Nabokov with his illustrious contemporaries Jorge Luis Borges and Samuel Beckett. Nabokov replied that the comparison made him feel like a “thief between two Christs.” 

Well, I know myself (more or less), and I know I’m no Vladimir Nabokov. But his statement does describe how I felt when Food & Wine magazine invited me to attend a special 30th-anniversary dinner last year at the late Phillip Johnson’s iconic “glass house,” along with nine other “important innovators in the epicurean world.”

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The magazine’s September 2008 issue briefly recounts the dinner. Here are the attendees — I’m the awkwardly dressed guy white-knuckling the cocktail.

So how did I handle myself among the great and good of the U.S. food scene? Like any good thief-among-nine-Christs, I happily ate and imbibed all the delicious things put in front of me and pretended that I belonged.