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Ashley Kitchens of the PlantBuilt team of vegan athletes, left, lifts a barbell during a strength competition. Vegan athlete Robert Rogers, right, works out in his backyard in Richmond, California. Photos courtesy of Ashley Kitchens, Robert Rogers
But better performance and aesthetics are often seen as side benefits. Most of the people Grist spoke to said they’re vegan primarily out of concern for animals or the environment, and that this concern is what motivates their advocacy. Some learned about the brutal conditions animals face in factory farms, and said they didn’t want to contribute.
Crandall said veganism “wasn’t even a choice” for him. He recently completed his doctorate in chemical and biomedical engineering, but while doing sustainability research as an undergraduate, he felt ethically compelled to ditch animal foods after learning about their contribution to climate change. “I felt guilty. I wanted to be able to sleep at night,” he said. “I’d been spending all day working in the lab to reduce CO2 emissions.” To then go home and eat meat just “didn’t feel right.”
He believes others would feel the same way if given the right information.
“I think there’s a lot of people that, once they have the capacity for empathy and knowledge of our food system, they’re going to want to go vegan,” Crandall said. “They just need to know that by doing that they can still compete at a very high level — they can still be strong, they can still build muscle. I want to make that very clear to them.”
Having role models can be an important confidence booster for the vegan-curious athlete, for whom scrutiny can feel inescapable.
Since as early as the 19th century, critics have derided people who choose not to eat meat as “odd” or even “half-crazed.” In 1907, one researcher at Yale expressed surprise that so-called “flesh-abstainers” could keep up with or outperform their meat-eating counterparts in movements like deep knee-bending and leg-raising.
In the 1970s — at a time when vegetarianism was more exotic than it is today — professional critics blamed the injuries of NBA superstar Bill Walton on his vegetarianism. And when he was performing well, it was in spite of his diet. “The vegetarian tiger played as if he had dined on red meat all week,” a Time Magazine article said in 1974.
The same goes for modern vegan athletes. When Carolina Panthers quarterback Cam Newton was sidelined by a sprain in his left foot in 2019, the media implied that his slow recovery was diet-related; one sports nutritionist told The Charlotte Observer that he would “immediately” feel better if he ate animal protein.
Vegan athletes are “under a microscope,” Crandall said. “If you’re not performing at tip-top shape at all times, people are going to say that it’s because of your diet.”
When Crandall tore his meniscus in the lead-up to a recent powerlifting competition, he said people online blamed it on his veganism. (He still won the competition.) Chetcuti said she gets similar comments — “If you weren’t vegan, you’d be stronger” — or more toxic ones focused on her physique.
Perhaps the other most significant barrier to the adoption of veganism among athletes is the equation of meat with strength, power, virility, and other qualities typically seen as masculine. Refusing animal products is seen as “weaker, homosexual, and unmanly,” according to vegan and vegetarian respondents to a 2023 survey. Crandall said that, as a young man, he was wary that veganism would cause others to perceive him as feminine. Balsamico said she gets the sense that some of the male clients she works with would think it too “girly” to eat a tofu salad sandwich.
“If you don’t eat meat, you’re a p-ssy — that’s the vibe that people are putting out,” Chetcuti added.
In the U.S., some historians link these perceptions back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when once-common expressions of American masculinity — war, expansion of the Western frontier — began to decline. Food helped fill the void, as dietary advice and corporate advertisers cast meat-eating as a symbol of status, power, and domination. Foods like salad and Jell-O were seen as dainty and understood to be women’s cuisine.
Today, Rogers said fears around veganism seem strongest among those on the political right, who feel their masculinity is under threat or that policies to reduce meat consumption are an affront to their personal freedom. Democrats want to “take away your hamburgers,” they say, and force Independence Day barbecuers to “throw back a plant-based beer with your grilled Brussels sprouts.”
“They see it as maleness under attack,” Rogers told Grist.
There is research to support this hypothesis — and more broadly to support the conclusion that people dislike vegans and vegetarians because of their resistance to entrenched social norms. One 2015 study found that people had more negative feelings toward vegans and vegetarians who were motivated by animal rights and the environment, compared to those motivated by personal health. A separate analysis from 2022 described how Australian men perceive plant-based burgers as a “symbol of eliminated freedom.”
In the absence of a political transformation, many vegan athletes aim to present a different reality and, as Crandall put it, “transcend these arbitrary labels” of masculine and feminine. Ben Berman, a New York City vegan who began a serious weightlifting regimen last year, said he’s trying to reappropriate the epithet “soy boy,” historically used to emasculate vegan and vegetarian men. One of his favorite shirts bears the phrase — he said he hopes to one day be muscular enough for people to look at him and say, “Oh, that’s what a soy boy looks like.”
Balsamico said she’s resilient in the face of unkind online conduct. In addition to sharing vegan training tips at her Pittsburgh gym, she likes bringing vegan snacks to social gatherings — an innocuous but effective way to pique the curiosity of nonvegan friends and community members. “I don’t want people to ever feel that I’m pushing stuff on them,” she said.
It’s a strategy that is notably different from the one that radical veganism might call to mind: masked activists standing in a public square, confronting passersby with enlarged photographs of the cruelty that transpires on factory farms.
Not that there’s no alignment between those vegans and the plant-based strength athletes of Instagram. “I definitely have my moments of being a crazy vegan,” Chetcuti said. “I’ll show you slaughterhouse videos, I have them on my phone if you want to see them.”
But overall, her theory of change is less about shocking people into action than leading by example. “It’s much more inspiring for me to be a regular-ass person,” she said, “to be a fitness coach, to be an athlete.”
This article originally appeared in Grist at https://grist.org/arts-culture/meet-the-jacked-vegan-strength-athletes-defying-stereotypes/.
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