Even though Kenya is a major food exporter, it hasn’t reaped much benefit from the $20 billion-per-year global market in organic foods. Now some farmers and nonprofits in the African nation are trying to change that. Many Kenyans already grow their crops without chemical inputs, but up till now, not a single one has been certified as an organic farmer — and without such certification, farmers can’t benefit from the lucrative natural foods market. Advocates of organic farming say that although the practice can be labor intensive, it is more sustainable, yields more healthful food, and reduces reliance on expensive imported chemicals. The biotechnology industry, however, dismisses organic food as spoils for the spoiled, and says the future of agriculture in Africa lies with genetically modified crops.