
Stay glassy: What fancy beer tasting parties look like (not ours). (Photo by Cambridge Brewing Co.)
Beer -- it's what's for dinner.
No, seriously: It sounds like a party T-shirt for bleary-eyed frat boys, but by now we all know Mesopotamians created beer at the dawn of civilization to help stretch their cereal crops, and perhaps to help get them smashed while watching the game. The point is, beer is closer to food than practically any other liquid, and we should treat it as such and ingest only the best. Thankfully, the craft brewers driving the malted beverage industry get this, and the ingredient quality and variety of domestic beers is arguably higher than it's been in a century.
But while organic beer sales are on the rise overall, they remain a minuscule portion of the market. (Blame hops and barley: Organic versions of these key ingredients are often in short supply and expensive.) Colorado's New Belgium just announced plans to phase out their Mothership Wit, one of the more high-profile organic beers on the market, because of declining sales. Most specialty stores carry only a handful of organic brews, and a fact-finding mission to Seattle's Bottleworks bore this out. This is no fluorescent-lit liquor mart stacked with cubes of Natty Light, mind you. It's more like a wood-trimmed, darkened library of beer, complete with hushed acolytes poring (pouring) over sacred chilled texts. Even here, an otherwise knowledgeable sales associate admitted no one had ever asked specifically for organic beers before. Nevertheless, he deemed the idea "cool" and helped me scour the archives looking for telltale green stickers on frosty bottles.
In the end, I came away with eight organic brews -- comparable results to those of past Grist Beer High Priest Tom Philpott, who valiantly braved the malted seas on three separate occasions. Where Philpott convened a panel of experts with refined palates in genteel "temples of flavor," I chose to taste-test beer as it is typically consumed: among bitter coworkers, straining to bear each other's company at the end of a long day. (I kid, but come on -- it was a Tuesday.)
Herewith, the results of Grist's first staff organic beer blind taste test, completely scientific and recorded in the office kitchen. In ascending order of preference: