Fish farming gets a lot of flack, and salmon often bears the brunt of it. Much of this has to do with the fish food — namely, the old saw that it takes an average of three pounds of wild fish to make one pound of domesticated salmon.

But then why is the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s vaunted Seafood Watch program, for the first time ever, giving ocean-farmed salmon its seal of semi-approval as a “good alternative”? What’s more, these salmon, from Verlasso, were spawned by agri- and aquacultural behemoths, DuPont and AquaChile, and fattened with the help of genetically modified organisms.

Let’s be clear: We’re not talking Frankenfish, as many have dubbed AquaBounty’s super fast-growing Atlantic-Chinook-salmon-eel hybrid. This time, the GMO in question is yeast — a bizarre microbe to begin with — with an algae gene spliced in. Since the frankenyeast (not as catchy, right?) is chock-full of the Omega-3s that salmon require, it can be used to replace most of the fish oil and fish meal in Verlasso’s feed.